4. Next, cut through the wires just above
the existing connections. In most cases,
there will be three wires. Make note of
the wires on the new bilge pump that
must correspond to the existing wiring.
5. The exact mounting method varies
by manufacturer and size of pump. In
this case, the pump was screwed to a pad
fiberglassed into the bottom of the hull
under the engine. With the pump out of
the way, I was able to unscrew the two
stainless screws that retained the strainer
to the bottom of the boat.
6. Use new screws to secure the pump in
place. Be certain as to what you’re doing.
Don’t drill through the bottom of the
hull! Most boats have a mounting plate
for the pump, but if you’re at all uncertain, seek expert help.
7. Make new electrical connections using
new crimped connectors covered with
heat-shrink tape. This will keep water
out of the connections and prevent electrical leakage into the bilge water should
it rise that high. This could discharge
your battery or cause stray current corrosion. The end of the wire from the
pump to which you connect the ship’s
wiring should be well above the bilge
high-water level and away from stuffing
box splatter to further avoid corrosion.
You may need to use additional marine-rated sheathed electrical cable, splicing
it with appropriate crimped connectors
with head shrink tape. Tie off the wiring
if needed, to avoid it getting caught in
8. Finally, reconnect the discharge hose
to the pump using a new hose clamp.
Then test the pump and switch for
operation by putting a few buckets of clean water
into the bilge.
There should be
good stream of
water coming out
the outlet. If your
is an external float
from the pump
housing), check to
see that it works
by lifting it up.
Install a larger
than you think
stated output is only
every 3 feet of
lift, the output
videos of Mark
a bilge pump
and a bilge-pump switch.