1. Turn off the circuit breaker to the
hot-water tank heating element, then
open the hot-water faucet at the galley
or head sink to drain water from the tank.
Keep the water running until it turns
cold, ensuring that you won’t be scalded
by hot water as you disconnect the necessary pipework.
2. After the water runs cold, turn off
the breaker to the freshwater pump and
open both the hot and cold faucets to
further relieve pressure. As an extra safety
measure, pull up the small tab on the
pressure-relief valve, staying clear of its
outlet. (Inspect this valve after the job to
be sure it isn’t dribbling.) If the tank has a
drain, open it; allow water to drain. If no
drain is installed, loosen the cold-water
intake to allow water to drain to a level
below the hot-water outlet where the
anode is normally installed.
3. Remove the plumbing connections
attached to the hot-water outlet on the
tank. My boat has copper connections,
but alternatives may be flexible hoses or
PEX type pipework.
4. With plumbing connections out of
DO IT YOURSELF
the way, carefully use a pipe wrench to
unscrew the hot water outlet from the
tank. The anode is probably connected to
this. It’s quite likely that this fitting will
be tight and stiff to remove.
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