New W S is the fastest way
to make strong, lasting, waterproof repairs with epoxy. The dual-chambered, self-metering cartridge fits into any standard caulking gun.
The static mixer delivers fully mixed, thickened W S epoxy
in the amount you need for the job at hand. No waste. No mess.
Six10 is uniquely formulated as a superior gap filling marine
adhesive with the ability to wet out fiberglass, carbon fiber and
other reinforcing materials. You can also use it to fill minor
imperfections or apply it as a protective coating.
Six10® Thickened Epoxy Adhesive
Ready to use
and easily stored
with your gear, Six10
comes in a 190 ml
cartridge, available for
around $22 from your local
W S dealer.
To learn more about Six10
or find a dealer near you,
Don’t let minor repairs limit
your time on the water
Perfect epoxy for
an imperfect world
the constant launch and haul-out cycles
(most hard paints can’t tolerate being out
of the water for extended lengths of time).
Slower craft can use hard, hybrid, or ablative type paints, but the benefits of the latter
two (no buildup, self-cleaning, etc.) should
be considered when choosing. (For an in-depth review of bottom paints and long-term
test results, see Practical Sailor magazine:
For boats not currently painted, application is
simply a matter of following the paint manufacturer’s instructions for application to a new
or unpainted hull. If your boat is currently
painted, you have a few considerations to
address before repainting. Not all bottom paint
types are compatible, so unless you plan on
removing ALL of the existing bottom paint, the
paint you currently have will influence your
choice of new paint. If you know the brand/
type of bottom paint on your boat now, the
options are straightforward – either continue
to use the same paint or (if using a different
paint) consult manufacturer specs for both
paints (old and new) to ensure compatibility.
If you don’t know who the manufacturer
of your current paint is and plan on paint-
ing over it, at a minimum you’ll need to
determine whether it’s a hard, semi-hard,
or ablative type. One straightforward way
to do this is by rubbing the existing bottom
paint with a wet rag. If the paint readily rubs
off, it’s most likely ablative. The general rule
is that ablative paints can be applied over
properly prepared hard or semi-hard paints,
but hard or semi-hard paints can’t be applied
over ablative paints (which wouldn’t provide
a proper adhesive surface for the hard paint).
For those wanting to switch from soft to hard
paint, the ablative paint would need to be
DIY OR YARD?
THE ONLY ALLURE OF DOING YOUR OWN bottom job (cleaning, prepping, and apply- ing antifouling paint) is saving money. It’s a messy, tedious job that isn’t fun by any stretch of the imagination, but it’s not rocket science, either. Owners comfortable
with DIY projects can do their own bottom job with satisfactory results, as long as they follow the manufacturer’s instructions and rules regarding containment of old bottom paint
during removal (as well as proper disposal afterward). Many bottom paints are toxic and
have to be treated as such; some even require a pesticide license or other special permit to
apply. As such, any potential DIYers will need to ensure they’re thoroughly familiar with the
entire application process and follow all required safety precautions and practices, such as
the use of respirators and protective clothing. In addition, many boatyards have their own
rules such as restricting the work to certain areas of the marina.
Paying a professional to tackle the job has several advantages. The time and effort
required for a bottom job can (and likely will) be greater than many newcomers estimate,
particularly if the hull is in need of substantial prep work prior to painting (i.e. removal
of old paint buildup, blister repairs, etc.). The possibility of this “unexpected” extra time
should be factored in when weighing the savings of a DIY approach versus the yard, as
should the ancillary costs of painting equipment and safety gear.