giving the open blisters at least a couple of
low-humidity weeks to dry out.
Get yoUr fill
When you restart the repair, whether after a
few days or a few months, vigorously wash
the blisters a final time using a stiff brush
and as much water pressure as you can
bring (fiGUre 3). This is to flush away any
contaminants that drying has brought to the
surface. It will not raise the water content of
The only resin choice for individual blister
repair is epoxy resin, and not the kind hanging on the pegs at your local hardware store.
You need a high-performance epoxy such as
West System 105. If the ambient temperature
allows, use the regular hardener (for example,
West 205), which delivers slightly better
moisture exclusion than a slower hardener.
You’ll be filling the blisters in two or perhaps
three steps, and it’s essential that each happens before the previous application reaches
full cure so that they join together chemically.
You should initially attempt to fill just a
few blisters to get a feel for how long each step
requires and how much curing time to allow.
The first step is to mix up a small amount
of epoxy without any additive. Using a small
disposable brush, paint the interior of each
blister cavity with the epoxy (fiGUre 4).
It is this coat that forms the bond with the
existing laminate, so you want the epoxy
to completely saturate fibers and penetrate
pores and crevices. If you go immediately
to the next step, your filler is going to skid
on the wet epoxy and slide out of the cavity.
To avoid this, wait up to an hour to allow
fiG. 4: Paint
the inside of
each cavity with
ILLUSTRATIONS: ©2013 MIRTO ART STUDIO
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