interrupting the smooth hull in front of it.
Anything that disturbs water flow will create
turbulence, which degrades the fishfinder’s
PHOTO: SCOTT SOMMERLATTE
When you’ve found the best spot, hold
the transducer bracket against the transom
and adjust its position until it holds the face
of the transducer perfectly horizontal and
about 1/8-inch below the running surface
of the hull. Using a pencil, mark the location of the bracket’s mounting holes. Before
you actually mount the transducer, however,
now’s the time to run the transducer’s wire
to the dash. (Do so after the mounting procedure, and you might ruin the sealant’s grip
by accidentally jerking on the wire.) If your
boat had an old fishfinder with a transom-mount transducer, cut the transducer off
the end and use the old wire to draw the
new one through the wiring chase. If not,
you’ll have to start from scratch by using a
wire fish to pull the new transducer wire and
Once you’ve pulled all of the wire to
the helm and routed it up through the
hole you made, coil any extra line inside
the helm, and secure it with tie-wraps or
cushioned clamps. WARNING: Never cut
First things first: Find the best location for your fishfinder.
the transducer wire down to size; the new
connections you’ll have to make at the plug
can create additional resistance in the wires,
and the fishfinder’s performance will suffer.
SECOND WARNING: Don’t bundle the
transducer wire with the engine’s wiring
harness or VHF cable; they can cause electrical interference that will degrade the unit’s
Using the markings you made earlier on
the transom, drill pilot holes for the bracket’s mounting screws with your power drill.
Then use 3M 5200 adhesive/sealant to liberally coat the mounting screws and the holes
in the transom. While holding the bracket in
place, screw in the mount. Use lots of that
adhesive/sealant. The last thing you want is
water soaking through your transom.
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