A circular polarizing filter is helpful in
reducing glare when taking photos of
fish, crew, or boat parts that are underwater, or if you’re shooting sunrises or
landscapes and want the clouds to stand
out. Example, this Biscayne Bay sunrise.
(iso800, 24mm, f9, 1-125)
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n Two modes of auto focus are “single” and “continuous”
(“Al servo” for Canon). Action shots require continuous,
while single allows you to focus on the main point of interest, such as the face of the person or the fish’s eye. Press
the shutter halfway down, then recompose your photo for
the final shot, holding the original focal point.
n Check settings when you pick up the camera, to remind
yourself to change the settings if the lighting has
changed. Photography is about light or the lack thereof.
It’s a balancing act to admit the perfect amount of light to
give you proper exposure and razor-sharp focus.
n On the water, your biggest problem is overexposure, when
direct sunlight hits a silver fish, which washes out details.
An overexposed section will have zero pixels and can’t
be corrected. It’s better to underexpose the photo, then
lighten it later in your photo program.
JUNE | JULY 2012
n To compensate for the light that reflects off silvery fish,
I use a “negative exposure compensation” of 2/3 of an
f-stop, by moving two clicks off the center of the bracketing gauge at the bottom or the side of the view finder.
Press the shutter halfway and move the indicator two
bars to the left (negative side) by rotating the wheel on
the back of the camera.
n The more you use your camera and experiment with settings, the better your boating shots will be. Use your lon-gest telephoto lens a lot. Practice by taking bird photos,
especially when they’re in flight. They’re great subjects to
practice on, and you can get some spectacular photos in
Pat Ford has been fishing and taking photos of fish for more than
four decades. His photos regularly grace the covers of saltwater