area surface, making a slight dimple to avoid
a raised area. I’d clean with a good solvent,
then apply the resin and glass according to
the product instructions. I use West System
materials. I’d flare the edges of the repair
smooth after it dried. You may end up with a
slight raised area over the old holes, but you
could be far more certain that the filler seal
wouldn’t be compromised from pressure or
flex. This entire job wouldn’t take long nor
would it cost much.
with a 2010 90-hp outboard engine. What
can I install between the engine-mounting
bracket and transom to eliminate vibration?
There appears to be nothing wrong with the
propeller or engine.
Saint Charles, MO
I have a 1979, 25-foot Chris-Craft. The original
engine was counterclockwise rotating, making
the wheel rotation clockwise. The rudder is off-center to port. The new engine is standard rotation, making the prop rotation now CCW. Can I
move the rudder? The reason for the move is that
I have no control of the boat in reverse. It only
goes to starboard.
JOHN ADEY: There are several after-
market solutions to “soften” your prob-
lem ( www.quickmarine.com, for example).
Before doing anything drastic, make sure
that all the holes in the transom and out-
board bracket are of the proper size (e.g.,
no room for movement) and the bolts are
to manufacturer’s specs. If you’ve done this,
then try some type of rubber/nylon interface
between the O/B and the transom. Nylon
and rubber bushings are easy to come by
and install, but may not be resistant to oils,
fuels, and other common marine liquids. If
you choose to use an isolation method, be
sure the materials can handle the normal use
of the boat. Keep in mind there’s nothing
that can totally isolate the vibration of an
engine installed on an aluminum boat, but
it should not be uncomfortable and loud.
PUMP NOW OR LATER?
Our nine-gallon holding tank is not full after
MEET THE EXPERTS
DON CASEY: Moving the rudder is
unlikely to make any difference in backing.
The problem is that the rudder is leading
the prop when going backwards so the prop
wash is toward the bow, not over the rudder.
As a result, the rudder has no effect at all
until the boat is in motion. Even then, the
small rudder is going to exert small turning
force, often not enough to counteract the
“walking” effect of the prop. Unless you
have personal experience to the contrary,
I think the only difference reversing the
change in rotation will cause is in the direction of the walk. A right-hand prop (CW)
walks to port when going astern. A left-hand
prop (CCW) walks to starboard. Lots of
boats with single screws cannot be made to
back straight, not just your old Chris.
The reason for the offset rudder has little
to do with handling. Chris-Craft has long
offset rudders on some of their boats to
allow the prop shaft to be removed without
the necessity of first removing the rudder.
That said, the choice of offset side might
have been influenced by the designed direction of prop rotation, but any difference in
handling characteristics from shifting the
rudder to the opposite side a couple of
inches is unlikely to have enough effect to
justify the effort of making that change.
He’s been one of the most consulted experts on boat care and
upgrades for 30 years, and a panelist on our “Ask The Experts”
website for a decade. He and his wife cruise aboard their 30-footer
part of the year in the eastern Caribbean. His books include Don
Casey’s Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual, and the
recently updated This Old Boat, the bible for do-it-yourself boaters.
The Interim President of the American Boat & Yacht Council
(ABYC), John grew up boating. He’s been in the industry since 1990,
with experience from a yacht brokerage and boatyard to owning a
marine supply store. He and his family sail their classic 1976 Irwin
ketch, a boat he completely restored. John is a trusted source for
technical information for industry professionals.
He’s maintained, lived aboard, and cruised long distance on boats
with his wife and family for most of his adult life. He can take apart
and fix almost every system aboard a boat, has written two books,
filmed a two-set DVD on East Coast cruising, written for top marine
magazines, and has won nine first-place awards from Boating
Writers International and many awards for his technical writing.
The editor of Seaworthy, the damage avoidance newsletter of
BoatU.S. Marine Insurance, Bob has written hundreds of articles
on safety, loss prevention, and causes of boating accidents. His
2006 book, Seaworthy, Essential Lessons of Things Gone Wrong,
is based on 20 years of real claims files. He’s owned Folkboats to
J-Boats and currently sails a 36-foot sloop.
One of the most experienced technical writers in the marine business, and an accomplished fisherman, Lenny has a thorough understanding of modern marine electronics on both technical and end-user’s levels. He’s written five books, and won 18 Boating Writers
awards and two awards for excellence from the Outdoor Writers
Association. For several years running, he’s also been selected as
a judge for the NMMA Innovation Awards.
RATTLE & HUM
I own a Sea Arc [aluminum] welded jon boat
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