tion on “Capacity,” you’ll find the dimensions of
the plate. Take this to a vinyl-graphics place with
the numbers Bayliner gave you and have a new
one made up. Don’t be tempted to increase the
capacity; Bayliner has tested and certified this boat
with the stated number and modifying that could
endanger those on the boat should someone operate
it in the overloaded condition. Also, I inquired with
some of my law-enforcement contacts; they assured
me that the capacity letter will be sufficient should
you be stopped on the water. (See our article on
federal requirements on weight limits, page 28.)
I HAVE A 1999 150-HP MERCURY OUTBOARD mounted on a 20-foot Pro-Line CC.
When moving through the water slowly,
starting to plow a bit, the engine overheats.
When up on plane or idling, the temperature returns to normal. What causes this?
as corrosion with the water pump, a failing
thermostat, corroded thermostat housing, or
blockage in the cooling passages. Many things
can cause the latter, ranging from debris, corrosion, or even a mud dauber’s nest. Going
slowly also forces less water into the passage
leading to the pump, and if there were a
restriction or other problem, the effects could
be worsened. Check your indicator stream,
and consider replacing the thermostat. Check
the housing and whatever passageways you
can see when you do, and then the impeller
and/or pump housing. If you haven’t yet done
this on a 1999 engine, it’s well past time.
TOM NEALE: It sounds like the engine is
overheating when it has to work harder. This
could mean that the cooling system is marginal. This could be caused by the water-pump
impeller going bad, or other problems such
I HAVE A 1989 HUNTER 40 LEGEND
with an electrical problem. The voltmeter
in the main panel shows one to two volts
when the battery selector switch is in the off
position. No shore power is attached to the
boat. All electrical connections have been
disconnected, cleaned, and reinstalled with
no change. There’s no loss of cranking power
after several weeks of non-use. The selector
switch is left in the off position when not in
use. Your thoughts? John LaRoche
TOM NEALE: You may have a defective
meter, particularly if it’s the type with a needle.
Sometimes as they get older, these will begin
indicating voltage in the needle’s resting
position even though there’s none. Check by
turning the selector switch off and removing all wires from the meter. If you still get
a “ghost” voltage reading, your problem is
with the meter. If the ghost voltage goes away,
you’ll have to go through a long process of
elimination to isolate the problem. The first
step would be to test for voltage at the outgoing terminals at the selector switch, with the
outgoing wires disconnected and the switch
off. Start tracing back from there, using the
process of elimination.
I FISH THE GREAT LAKES, occasionally
up to 15 miles offshore — too far for my
handheld five-watt radio to reach reliably. My
boat is a 21-foot open bow Bayliner. I want
to install a fixed-mount VHF, complete with
antenna. I don’t want to over-buy, but I want
one that will let me stay in touch with my
fishing buddies. Any recommendations?
Don’t let minor repairs limit
your time on the water
New W S is the fastest way
to make strong, lasting, waterproof repairs with epoxy. The dual-chambered, self-metering cartridge fits into any standard caulking gun.
The static mixer delivers fully mixed, thickened W S epoxy
in the amount you need for the job at hand. No waste. No mess.
Six10 is uniquely formulated as a superior gap filling marine
adhesive with the ability to wet out fiberglass, carbon fiber and
other reinforcing materials. You can also use it to fill minor
imperfections or apply it as a protective coating.
Six10 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive ®
Perfect epoxy for
an imperfect world
Ready to use and easily stored with your gear, Six10
comes in a 190 ml
cartridge, available for
around $20 from your local
W S dealer.
To learn more about Six10
or find a dealer near you,
66 | BoatU.S. Magazine
OCTOBER | NOVEMBER 2011