then it’s quite possible it’s doing other damage as well. Wooden
bulkheads and deck core can all be damaged over time if you cannot get to the leak. Perhaps water is wicking down the cable from
a location that’s not immediately in the area of the unit.
Sometimes these parts can be effectively dried if they haven’t
been energized while wet. CRC’s QD Electronic Cleaner, followed
by sealing the unit in a bag of rice for a week or so, works quite
nicely. Word of caution, however: Put some hours on the item
before relying on it to make sure it can go the distance.
When reinstalling (the new one or the old one), consider
adding a drip shield to the top of the compass housing. A piece
of plastic milk bottle is about as low-tech as you can get. Installed
properly, this will direct any water away from the unit. I recommend against additional sealing of the box; this will prevent any
humidity from escaping and causing additional damage. I am sure
Simrad has a method to their enclosures that prevents moisture
buildup. Location is a different story. If you were satisfied with
the operation of the compass as it was, I would keep it there. To
relocate, I suggest getting the installation manual from Simrad
( www.simrad-yachting.com) and following their instructions. First
things first — find that leak!
Shift To Stop
I have a 150 Mercury outboard that stalls when the throttle
is moved from the slow-idle position to the shift-neutral position.
The engine stops as if the ignition has been turned off. Is there an
electrical stop switch in the control that could be causing this shutdown? — William Reinfelder
( 9 balls)
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Tom Neale: Many of these shifting control mechanisms have an
electrical safety switch within the unit. The purpose is usually to
keep you from starting the motor in gear. The switch itself may be
defective or there may be loose or deformed parts inside, interfering with the switch. I’ve disassembled some outboard-shifting
control mechanisms and some are very complex inside, with
much to go wrong, in my opinion. If there is no electric wiring
running from your shift mechanism, then the kill switch is
probably elsewhere. Sometimes
the kill switch is located on the
engine. If your system is rigged
this way, the same issues may be
at that location.
I’d suggest that you get
someone to find out what’s
going on before trying to use
the boat again. It may be that
you just need to remove the
shift mechanism from the console or look up from underneath
(depends on how and where it’s mounted) and the problem will
be obvious. It could be something as simple as wiring. But any of
this could involve a potentially serious safety issue.
I have the 2002 Yamaha 250 Saltwater Series on my 23-foot
Sea Pro Walkaround. The tachometer intermittently reads 1,000-
1,500 rpm higher than actual. I’ve been told possibly a poor
ground, but I have no idea where to check. Any ideas?
— William Wilcox
Little Egg Harbor, NJ
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