column of water in the large-diameter discharge hose drains back
into the bilge when the pump shuts off. In the original edition of
This Old Boat, I proposed the two-pump solution — the smallest
automatic pump available discharging through 1/2-inch hose to
take care of rain, ice-box melt, and stuffing-box drips, and a “real”
bilge pump mounted higher to deal with an emergency. An unintended benefit of this configuration is that it extends the life of
the large pump to near immortality because this pump sits high
and dry and never sees use except for testing or a real emergency.
The benefits are so compelling that this arrangement has indeed
become common practice.
As to your concern, the type of pumps we’re talking about
are centrifugal pumps, which are self priming, so as soon as the
water level submerges the impeller, the pump will be primed. You
can put the pump into full-flow operation with the flip of a switch,
either manual or automatic. Because an automatic pump will
mask a serious leak on an unattended boat and will deplete the
batteries in the process, if you connect the large pump to an automatic switch, you should also incorporate a loud high-water alarm
or some other means to make sure someone knows instantly that
this pump is running.
antenna. Move them as far apart as possible, try again. Second,
invest in an automotive radio-noise filter on the GPS power supply. They’re cheap (under $5 for a 10-amp) and are marketed to
reduce alternator noise. I’ve recommended these over the years
with surprising results.
When You Wonder Where The Yellow Went
Is there any way that I can clean the black mold/mildew spots
and streaks out of my yellow Marinco 50-amp power cord? White vinegar doesn’t work. — Pete Rummel
My Icom 504 works great, until I turn on my Garmin GPS
MAP 215. At that point, reception is all static. The excess cables
aren’t coiled and wrapped in foil. The position interface is connected. Both power leads and grounds are off the same bars. How
can I use both units as intended? — Michael Chaky
Parma Heights, OH
John Adey: First, consider the location of GPS antennae to VHF
Tom Neale: First, it’s always a good idea to
ask the manufacturer for recommendations. If
your cable is new enough and still supple with
an otherwise good and intact surface, try one
of the several power-cable cleaners on the market. We use Starbrite’s Power Cable Cleaner
( www.starbrite.com), although we can’t recommend any one product over the other
because we haven’t tried them all (thank goodness). Try a product intended for this purpose
before you use anything more harsh. This
product did remove most of the dark stuff and
mildew on our old cable.
We’ve also used bleach mixed with boat
soap and water and a scrub brush to remove the dark stuff. I’ve
observed other people use Soft Scrub (with bleach) and a stiff
brush for this purpose, with some success. You should unplug
the cable and remove it from the boat and place in a safe spot for
Moldy hoses? Be gone!
Don’t let minor repairs limit
your time on the water
New W S is the fastest way
to make strong, lasting, waterproof repairs with epoxy. The dual-chambered, self-metering cartridge fits into any standard caulking gun.
The static mixer delivers fully mixed, thickened W S epoxy
in the amount you need for the job at hand. No waste. No mess.
Six10 is uniquely formulated as a superior gap filling marine
adhesive with the ability to wet out fiberglass, carbon fiber and
other reinforcing materials. You can also use it to fill minor
imperfections or apply it as a protective coating.
Six10 Thickened Epoxy Adhesive ®
Perfect epoxy for
an imperfect world
Ready to use and easily stored with your gear, Six10
comes in a 190 ml
cartridge, available for
around $20 from your local
W S dealer.
To learn more about Six10
or find a dealer near you,